Many have at least once had to deal with a situation when a motor that worked perfectly before is "blown away", the machine seems to grow an anchor from behind. The reasons why the engine does not pull and does not gain momentum are different, but it is not difficult to recognize the signs of the majority without the skills of an automobile diagnostician or minder.

Common causes for all engines

The characteristics of the motor indicated in the passport data of the car are provided under certain conditions. This is the normal filling of the cylinders with air, which is the working fluid in the internal combustion engine. This is the ability to heat it up to the desired temperature in time - to supply a certain amount of fuel of proper quality and set it on fire in time (the pressure peak for maximum efficiency should occur at the moment the piston moves top dead points).

The loss of engine power, regardless of its design, is the result of a number of general causes. Let's start with fuel: its quality remains lottery, while the engine is tuned to a certain grade. That is, the mixture prescribed in the injection maps or the mixture specified by the carburetor settings may deviate from the ideal, and the combustion rate of the mixture changes. So, if problems appeared immediately after refueling, you yourself know which way to look.

Filling the cylinders with air is rigidly connected with the valve timing. It is enough to leave the marks, as the strokes of the internal combustion engine will be shifted: a difference of 1 tooth can significantly reduce the engine power. Moreover, it is not necessary for a belt or chain to jump - that's all more motors get keyless pulleys that require rigid fixation of the shafts with special devices during installation. If you do not reach the pulley, and one day it will move from a given position. And it's good if the engine simply loses traction, and does not hit the piston on the valves that did not close in time, driving them into the cylinder head.

In engines with variable valve timing, the camshafts (at least one) have the ability to shift so that, with sufficient throttle response at the bottom (small phase overlap), they do not lose at the top (the camshafts are shifted "towards each other", increasing the overlap phase, which increases power at high speeds ). Possible reasons why the car does not pick up speed are a failure of the VVTi control valve or problems with the phase shifter couplings. We have already discussed this issue, speaking of.

In addition, cylinder filling is tied to intake and exhaust resistance. To clog the air filter so that it loses its throughput - this must be contrived, but oil emissions through the crankcase ventilation system, especially if the piston filter is already worn out, and the oil trap is primitive, are not uncommon. On the VAZ-2106, it is not difficult to make the engine "sip on oil" through the crankcase ventilation, and on fresh front-wheel drive cars (2109, 2110, 2114) such cases are possible. At the oily air filter resistance grows sharply, hence the loss of motor thrust.

Release on carburetor cars and old diesel engines is simple, and it is enough to significantly reduce the flow area so that the engine begins to "choke" with exhaust gases, you can only powerful blow (when moving irregularities, for example) or a canon potato - but at least immediately noticeable.

If the engine with electronic injection does not pull, then the catalyst falls under suspicion in this case. Overheating, fuel ingress due to malfunctions in the power system can cause sintering of its honeycomb. Diesel engines with particulate filters soot becomes the main enemy: automatic filter burning on the go is ineffective, and at least you need to perform forced regeneration.

Problems with the release easily betray themselves: a muffled engine, upon a subsequent attempt to start, throws smoke into the intake, the sound of the engine changes, leaks immediately "crawl out" (the exhaust begins to "whip" to the damaged area).

The engine must not only get the right amount of air and fuel - it must ignite on time. On a gasoline engine, an appropriate ignition timing is needed, for a diesel engine - an injection timing. Since there is no separate ignition system on modern injection engines, problems with ignition advance are primarily characteristic of carburetor machines and old injection systems with a distributor (the Japanese used such systems right up to the early 2000s). Check the basic advance angle, set by the distributor, and the operation of the advance automatic devices in it (in case of malfunctions, the angle, normal at idle speed, will start to "go away" when accelerating).

A separate case is motors, where the distributor is driven by a separate pulley from the timing belt (old Audi and Volkswagens). Here, when replacing the belt, the distributor pulley is set "as necessary" (there are no marks on this pulley!), Forgetting that when replacing the belt, the distributor must be oriented with a cam according to the risk on the crankcase under it. After such a replacement, the car stops driving, since the ignition angles change. For diesel engines with a mechanical injection pump, the initial injection angle is set, in addition, the advance regulator works - they are checked according to the data from the repair and maintenance instructions.

On gasoline engines, we also add spark plugs to the suspects: even if the engine runs normally at idle, it is not a fact that the spark plugs will work well under load, when the pressure in the cylinders at the end of the compression stroke rises and the conditions for sparking become worse. It is worth putting another kit for a test: without an oscilloscope, which allows you to take the voltage curves from a working ignition system, it is difficult to determine how the plug actually behaves under load. In the illustration below, look at the peak voltages corresponding to the moment of sparking: the gap in the third cylinder is excessively increased, the spark ignites at too high a voltage, and its duration drops (the power accumulated in the ignition coil is not enough for normal spark combustion).

If we talk about compression, then under normal conditions it decreases with wear so slowly that the decrease in power is imperceptible for the driver. An exception is rapidly developing breakdowns (piston ring cracks, destruction of partitions between rings,). Simultaneously with a drop in power, idle stability will sharply drop, the final diagnosis will be unambiguously delivered by a compressor.

As for turbocharged engines, the state of the turbocharger is reflected well on their dynamics. An ideal centrifugal pump (a turbocharger impeller) has a quadratic dependence of performance on rpm: as soon as the rpm drops by half, the boost pressure drops by four. Rotor wedging due to destruction or coking of bearings, burning of a "hot" impeller - probable cause, on which the turbocharged car does not pull. Here, as with compression, a pressure gauge will help out.

Reasons for the loss of power in a carburetor motor

Here it is worth immediately checking the fuel level and the operation of the fuel pump: "underfilling" the fuel immediately betrays itself under load with a loss in dynamics, shots into the carburetor. Overflowing due to a faulty locking needle of the carburetor will likewise lead to a loss of power by the engine, here black smoke and firing from the muffler will already become a characteristic sign.

The dynamics of the car is perceived better during acceleration, so that a possible reason for the "dullness" of the car can be a defect in the accelerator pump. The fact is that all carburetor systems are designed to work in static modes, while the mixture is over-depleted when speeding up. To combat this overpowering, an accelerating pump is used: when you press the gas pedal, the diaphragm pushes a dose of gasoline through the shut-off valve into the nozzles that go into the diffusers. If the diaphragm of the accelerating pump ruptures or the spray nozzles become clogged, the acceleration of the machine will immediately deteriorate so much that it is difficult not to notice. It is not difficult to check the accelerator pump - after removing the air filter or "turtle" from the carburetor, you need to sharply press the drive throttle: fingers will feel resistance (the diaphragm will create pressure in the accelerating pump), and trickles of gasoline should hit the inlet from the nozzles.

In operating modes, the composition of the air-fuel mixture is set statically by a set of fuel and air jets. It is worth blowing them out, and in case of noticeable deposits, rinse with a cleaner: even if this is not the problem, it will not be superfluous to maintain the health of the main dosing system.

Does not pull the injection engine

Why does the car not pull if the injection systems are equipped feedback and can self-regulate in a "closed loop"? Alas, the possibilities for self-regulation are not as wide as we would like.

The first enemy of injection systems is insufficient pressure fuel. When the fuel consumption is minimal, the correction reserve is sufficient for idling. But as soon as the engine is loaded, the correction will jump to the limit threshold, but the injectors will still "underfill".

The pressure in the fuel rail is set by three units: the fuel pump itself, the pressure regulator and a set of filters (coarse and fine). The performance of a serviceable fuel pump several times exceeds the needs of the engine at maximum flow - this is done so that pump wear is as little as possible affecting the operation of the engine. Therefore, a fuel pressure regulator is used, which discharges "excess" fuel either immediately at the pump outlet, or from the fuel rail after the fine filter.

In the first case, the fuel rail is called drainless (16-valve VAZ engines, modern foreign cars), in the second - drain. The difference between these systems is in the location of the regulator and in its operation. On the drain ramps, the pressure regulators are controlled by the vacuum in the intake manifold, the pressure in the ramp changes depending on the load (at normal 3 bar for a VAZ at idle speed, it is 2.3-2.4 bar, take this into account when diagnosing!). On non-drains, the pressure is kept constant relative to the atmosphere and amounts to 3.5-4 bar, depending on the car model. An exception is direct injection systems, where the operating pressure ranges from 20 to 70 bar.

Something else useful for you:

The resistance of the fuel filters does not affect when measuring the fuel pressure "in the plug" (the pump is forcibly switched on on a muffled engine when there is no fuel flow in the rail) and is minimal at idle. But on the other hand, under load, an excessive increase in filter resistance reduces fuel supply to the rail, which will lead to a loss of speed. Therefore, measure the pressure at idle speed and under load (for example, hanging the drive axle and braking the wheels in the engaged gear). In cases where idle speed is normal, and problems occur on the move, it is meaningless to measure pressure only at idle speed (XX).

Check exclusion steps:

1. Remove the coarse filter ("mesh" at the inlet). This is a known problem in a number of cars - for example, on the second generation of "Focuses".
2. Replace fine filter.
3. Measure pressure under load.
4. On engines with a drain ramp, squeeze or otherwise muffle the return line to exclude the influence of the fuel pressure regulator. On motors with a drainage ramp, the RTD is installed in the fuel pump module, here it is easier to temporarily install a plug washer made of polyethylene or other material that is not destroyed by gasoline under it.
5. Measure the pressure again: if it has increased, then the RTD needs to be replaced, otherwise, the pump must be replaced.

The second reason is "underfilling" -. Even with normal work filters, deposits on spray nozzles are inevitable over time. At home, you can evaluate only the shape of the spray torch by removing the ramp and turning the motor with a starter (Attention! This procedure is fire hazardous!). A clean nozzle should "dust" evenly, and not spurt or pour to the side. It is possible to evaluate the performance of injectors and compare it with the nominal one only at the stand.

The loss of dynamics is a consequence of the excessive enrichment of the mixture. Here, the fuel pressure regulator cannot be blamed (the pump performance, even when operating without an RTD, is not so high that the correction margin of the injection computer does not block the enrichment). It is much more likely that the injectors are leaking (again, it is checked at the stand) or the failure of the sensors on which the calculation of the injection time is tied.

Here the undisputed leader - the mass air flow sensor - is an accurate but sensitive device. As the mass air flow sensor becomes dirty and aging, the readings are overestimated, the car starts to consume significantly more fuel. As a result, the over-enrichment of the mixture can no longer be corrected by. But such a malfunction is immediately visible: the car will start to smoke, the candles will become overgrown with black carbon deposits. On motors with an absolute pressure sensor, the air temperature sensor is more likely to fail (here it is - separate node, while in the DMRV built-in).

On cars with an electronic throttle, it is worth checking the operation of the servo by removing the nozzle from the throttle and letting it go through. The throttle should open evenly, without pauses and wedging, indicating problems with the drive gearbox or (the axle, overgrown with carbon deposits, wedges in the housing).

Video: Lost power. Loss of power

Printing

As a rule, during long-term operation vehicle almost every driver sooner or later notices that the engine pulls poorly. In other words, power unit can hardly cope with the loads, there is a loss, the unit needs to be unwound to high revs to maintain the usual pace, the car accelerates worse from a standstill, slowly picks up speed, etc.

In this case, the motor in many cases runs smoothly, does not troit, no knocking or noise during operation. Immediately, we note that there is a fairly wide list of possible reasons why a warm engine does not pull, there is a loss of engine power when cold and / or hot.

In this article, we will talk about why the engine does not pull, and also consider the most common malfunctions that manifest themselves in the form of loss of thrust of the power unit.

So, if no other symptoms, besides the loss of traction, are found, then you must immediately pay attention to the quality of the fuel, the serviceability of the system, etc.

• As practice shows, more than half of the cases of reduced recoil from internal combustion engines are associated with fuel. The engine does not pull due to the fact that low-quality or unsuitable fuel for this type of engine may be filled into the tank (for example, 92nd gasoline instead of 95th).

In some cases, after refueling, problems with starting the engine may also arise, the engine appears. To solve this problem, it may be sufficient to dilute the available fuel with a better quality. Less often, it becomes necessary to completely drain the fuel from the tank, after which an additional flushing of the power system is performed.

Usually, such manipulations are necessary when, in parallel with the loss of thrust, an unstable operation of the internal combustion engine is noted, and under load, the engine starts poorly, on the panel, etc.

Also the owners gasoline engines can independently determine the quality of gasoline. To check, the plugs must be unscrewed from the engine. Violation of the combustion process of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders, as well as the presence of impurities in the fuel, can be detected by the soot on the spark plugs and its color.

For example, if the fuel contains many third-party metal-containing additives and additives, then the skirt and electrodes may become covered with reddish carbon deposits (brick-colored). Black carbon deposits indicate that the fuel is not burning properly, etc. In any case, malfunctions in the combustion process of the working mixture lead to the fact that the engine stops pulling.

• The next step in diagnosis is. A decrease in the efficiency of these elements is also accompanied by a drop in the power of the power unit.

This is especially noticeable during sharp accelerations, and when the car is already moving on high speed... In other words, the motor has no room for further acceleration.

The candles may be dirty, and it should not be ruled out that their life has come to an end. To fix this problem, you can make or immediately replace the entire kit with a new one.

It is important to take into account that if the new spark plugs are correctly selected for a specific engine in terms of the heat rating and other parameters, but they still quickly become dirty, then the reason for the loss of thrust is not in them. The formation of carbon deposits in this case indicates problems with mixture formation or combustion of the fuel charge in the cylinders.

• If everything is in order with the candles, then it is necessary to check the condition of the fuel and air filter. In the first case, insufficient throughput can lead to the fact that the required amount of fuel is not supplied to the cylinders to prepare the so-called “power” mixture.

As a result, the engine loses power, that is, it does not pull under loads. In such a situation, it is sufficient to replace the indicated filter element. With regard to the air filter, the problem is similar to the fuel filter, but in this case there is a lack of air in the air-fuel mixture.

This leads to the fact that fuel without a sufficient amount of oxygen burns out incompletely. Under such conditions, the engine power naturally drops, carbon deposits form in the combustion chamber, candles become heavily soiled, etc. It also needs to be replaced to fix the problem.

Malfunctions of the power supply system, ignition and disturbed mixture formation

While spark plug and filter problems can be identified on the road, more serious power and ignition problems are much more difficult to diagnose and fix on the spot. In cases where the engine does not pick up speed, and jerks and dips are noted when pressing the gas pedal, it is necessary to check and or the injector.

Let's focus on the more common electronic injection. The list of the main faults of modern injection internal combustion engines allocate:

• malfunctions, reduced performance or contamination of the filter mesh of the fuel pump;
• malfunctions of injection nozzles;
• problems with sensors or ECU;
• malfunctions of the ignition system;
• air leaks and leaks in fuel lines;

If we talk about the ignition system, in addition to the candles, you should also check the ignition coils, etc. With regard to fuel delivery, at the initial stage, the pressure in the fuel rail (rail) should be measured. In parallel, the pressure regulator in the fuel rail is checked.

Often on many cars, problems are associated with fuel pump, which is in the gas tank, as well as with the specified regulator. To measure the fuel pressure, a pressure gauge is connected to the rail, the obtained values \u200b\u200bare compared with those recommended for a particular engine. If the pressure is below normal, then both the gas pump and the pressure regulator may be the culprit.

The task of the regulator is to discharge excess fuel into the return line at a time when the pressure is above normal. If the settings are lost or the regulator itself leaks or is faulty, then the fuel will be discharged into the return line ahead of time. To check this, air is pumped by a compressor or pump, the pressure in the rail increases. If the regulator is triggered earlier than the recommended pressure, the element must be adjusted or replaced.

Other Causes of Reduced Engine Output

The condition also has a great influence on the power of the motor. The fact is that to protect the environment from harmful emissions during the operation of the internal combustion engine, catalytic converters are installed in the exhaust.

During operation, the filter catalyst may collapse, reducing the throughput of the exhaust system. As a result, the engine is “strangled”. The check is carried out by measuring the pressure before and after the catalyst. You can also remove the element and inspect its condition visually.

As a rule, official services offer to replace a worn-out element, but the price of a spare part is very high. For this reason, on many cars in the CIS, the catalyst is simply knocked out, and the control unit is “deceived” by software or other available methods.

Also, when the engine power is reduced, it is necessary to check it separately to exclude the possibility of a valve timing failure. Sometimes there are situations when the belt can jump by one tooth, the chain is stretched, etc.

In this case, the synchronous operation of the valve mechanism in relation to the strokes of the internal combustion engine may be violated. This leads to various failures, unstable operation of the unit and a decrease in power.

We also add that engine wear and certain malfunctions also affect engine power. As a rule, worn-out, used internal combustion engines usually lose about 10% of the declared power.

If the driver feels that there are more losses, then the engine is needed. Low compression in the cylinders can occur as a result of wear of the cylinder walls, piston rings, or incomplete closure, etc.

One way or another, any leaks in the combustion chamber will lead to the fact that expanding gases during the combustion of the fuel will burst out of the cylinder. This means that the pressure of these gases on the piston will decrease, and the internal combustion engine itself will pull poorly and work unstably.

Finally, we note that also the reason that the car lost in dynamics may not be the engine, but the transmission. In other words, the powertrain develops enough power, but it is not fully transferred to the wheels.

This usually manifests itself in such a way that the engine roars, rpm is high, but the car does not drive, or acceleration is very slow in low gears. Often such problems are associated with automatic transmission clutch or slippage, as well as wedging brake system... To check the brakes, it is enough to accelerate the car on a flat road, then engage in neutral gear.

If, when coasting, it is noticeable that the car immediately began to slow down, then the problem is obvious, the wheels are slightly blocked. If there are no problems with the brakes, then automatic transmission diagnostics is necessary. It is better to entrust the specified procedure to experienced specialists by delivering the car to the service.

Read also

Purpose, design features, place of installation of the fuel pressure regulator injection engine... Signs of RTD malfunctions, device check.

VAZ-2114 cars, from the beginning of production, are equipped with eight-valve engines with a volume of 1.5 liters. Since 2007, they have been equipped with an eight-valve 1.6 liter engine with an environmental class Euro-4. The operation of the car, sometimes not correct, over time presents "surprises". not on full power, the thrust decreases. Let's try to figure out the reasons and methods of elimination.

The dynamics of the car, first of all, depends on the stable and stable operation of the engine. When the indicators of this characteristic decrease, this indicates that there are problems in the operation of the engine.

VAZ-2114 engine

Unstable engine operation is caused by the following:

• The fuel filter is dirty.
• The diaphragm of the fuel pump is clogged.
• Do not work or.
• Insufficient.
• On-board computer crashes.
• The nozzles are clogged (cleaning is required or).
• The clutch disc is worn out.
• Malfunctions of sensors that monitor: position crankshaft,; coolant temperature; ; detonation.

These are just some of the possible reasons why the engine can pull poorly throughout the rpm range.

It is worth mentioning about the fuel pump, which fails. The real state of affairs is determined by detailed diagnostics.

A brief analysis of the causes and their consequences for the VAZ-2114

1. Fine filter dirty ... Determined visually. Debris particles present in fuel tank, gasoline, accumulate in the filter, the channels are clogged. Insufficient fuel supply. "Treatment" -.

   Change fuel filter

2. The diaphragm of the fuel pump is clogged ... The reason is the same, there are dirt particles in the gasoline. Solved by digging, washing, blowing with compressed air

   We change the grid of the fuel pump

3. Clogged air filter ... For a short time, it is solved by blowing the filter, you can knock on a solid object. Ideally, the filter is replaced with a new one.

   We clean or change the air filter

4. Candles do not work or work poorly ... Determined by inspection, after unscrewing. One of the reasons - . The gaps are checked with a feeler gauge, the necessary one is installed. For this, the side electrode is bent to the required value.

   Checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes

5. Formed. The electrodes are cleaned with sandpaper (zero), cleaned, and the gap is checked.

   Cleaning spark plugs from carbon deposits

6. The serviceability of the spark plugs is checked on a stationary stand. If problems occur, it must be replaced.

   Candles are best checked at a stand in a car service

7. Insufficient compression in the cylinders ... This defect appears as a result of high wear of the cylinder-piston group. The result is increased oil consumption, incomplete combustion of the combustible mixture, gasoline enters the crankcase. In some cases, it is sufficient to replace the piston rings, in others it is necessary overhaul engine.

   We measure the compression in each cylinder

8. Failure or breakdown of the electronic control unit ... It is impossible to repair without special knowledge. Diagnostics in progress special devices... A flashing is possible, or the control unit changes completely.

   We carry out diagnostics of the control unit

9. Clogged nozzles ... ... There are additives in fuel, but they do not give much effect. Replacement may be required, so read the resource: ““.

   You can clean the nozzles at home

10. The clutch disc is worn out ... In motion, with an increase in revolutions, the car does not pick up the required speed, slipping is felt. Expertly checked by pulling off in fourth gear. If it stalls, everything is in order with the disk, if the engine is running, then there are problems. Solved by replacing the clutch disc.

    Illumination of the Check engine sensor indicates a malfunction of the sensors

conclusions

Maintenance (MOT), which should be carried out according to the manufacturer's recommendations, will avoid many problems. The only question is where to go, at the "kulibins", or at specialized service stations, equipped with the necessary equipment and apparatus. The choice remains with the vehicle owner. The earlier the prerequisites for the failure of a particular part are revealed, the less financial losses in the future.... It should be remembered that timely maintenance increases the safe operation of the vehicle.

According to statistics, every car owner, during a long service of the car, experiences problems with traction, depending on the reasons, the car either accelerated poorly, or could not even move at all. In other words, the engine simply does not have enough power to cope with all the loads - to gain speed and revs.

Dashboard

The most interesting thing is that the motor behaves in such situations as completely "healthy". You will not hear from him no noise, no knocking, no other evidence of a malfunction. I would like to note right away that the list of possible causes of power loss is huge and it is very difficult to describe all the malfunctions. We will give a list of only the most frequently encountered, and also analyze in detail their nature and possible reasons appearance.

Top causes of power loss

If no other problems are found along the way, as soon as the loss of traction, then first of all it is worth paying attention to the quality. As the practice says, in 51% of cases, low-quality fuel is associated with the loss of power. The tank is filled with bad or not appropriate fuel for the given model. It is not uncommon that modern cars, especially foreign-made ones do not tolerate 92 brands of gasoline. Sometimes it can be done quite simply, it is enough to dilute more quality fuel... Often, such manipulations help with unstable iCE operation, "" Revs and the like. Then along the way "" is observed on the tidy.

Owners of gasoline engines can easily check the quality by looking at the candles. If the reason lies in combustion disorders, as well as the presence of impurities, this will be displayed on the candles, soot will appear, and the color will change.

For example, when the fuel is oversaturated with third-party metal-containing components, the skirt and contacts will turn reddish. The formation of black carbon is indicative of defective combustion of the mixture. In any situation, in case of malfunctions in the combustion processes, the engine loses power.

Also, do not forget that when checking candles, you need to remember about the service life. They are not durable, especially if they were not of high quality initially. Now interesting factif after replacing the entire set of spark plugs, "scale" forms just as quickly and the engine experiences the same problems, then the cause should be looked for in filters or cylinders.

Problems with valve timing arise due to incorrectly installed "marks" of the belt, timing chain. Belts stretch, chains jump, after which, due to ignoring problems, the consequences can be much more sad.

Banal engine wear. Don't forget that used cars lose 10-15% of their power on average. If the power loss is much greater in your opinion, then it is wise to check the compression. Weak compression, and this is often less than 10 kg / m. indicates burnt-out cylinder walls, wear of rings, burnout of valves, and the like. Compression data for each model is different, but usually it is 12-14 kg / m. More details about which one you have can be found in the service book.

The reasons are in the transmission. Worn clutch in manual transmission or automatic transmission slipping. It is better to entrust the check to experienced craftsmen, especially for automatic transmissions.

Modern engines are more powerful, more economical and less polluting than before. So when the behavior of your engine changes, it immediately becomes noticeable. When a car “loses power,” it says something is wrong. This must be clarified immediately, as it can be the cause of an emergency on the way.

For example: You have damaged brake pads, and you did not notice it. When driving, they can lead to a wheel fire, since brake fluid is a flammable material. Or, the fuel filter is clogged with dirt. This can lead to damage to the fuel pump, which will start to work with increased load. These are two examples of the main causes of power loss in your vehicle. But there may be other reasons, we will consider how to identify them below:

Scanning trouble codes -must be done if on dashboard the engine warning light came on. If not, then proceed to the next step.

So, caught fire " check engine», You need to make a self-test or connect the scanner to the diagnostic connector. It should be noted that the vehicle control system records an error that appears again the second time the engine is started.

If the engine is running normally, then the existing code can be deleted from memory itself. There are times when the engine feels like something wrong, and the light does not light up. It's just that some malfunctions cannot be detected by the computer. For example: if the inlet or exhaust valves do not work correctly, the computer will not determine this, since this malfunction is not related to the sensors.

Checking the air filter- a dirty air filter reduces air supply to create fuel and air mixture. This leads to a drop in engine power and increased fuel consumption. The quality of the air filter material also affects engine performance. Do not chase cheapness, because possible repair the engine may cost more. There are many stories about how a non-original or cheap filter was installed, later it broke, and behind it the MAF-sensor and rings on the pistons went out of order. To check your air filter, open the hood, remove the filter element from the body assembly and assess the condition. Replace it if necessary.

Fuel filterr— under certain conditions, the fuel filter can supply less fuel to the system, and this, in turn, affects power. To check it, it is necessary to dismantle and drain the remaining fuel. Purge the filter along the fuel flow path in the system. A clean filter is easily blown through. If it is difficult or impossible to purge, throw it away without regret and remember that it can ruin your fuel pump.

Check the pressure in fuel system and on the pressure regulator-the fuel pump is in the gas tank if you are lucky enough to own an electronic injection car, or on the engine if you still have a carburetor car. For many cars, the deterioration in performance is associated with the fuel pump. Some vehicles have a dedicated connector for fuel lineto check the pressure. If you do not have it, you will have to attach some effort to connect the pressure gauge. You can find the line pressure value in your engine. A special regulator is installed in your line, which dumps excess pressure in the line back to the gas tank. It may be misconfigured or leak altogether. It can be checked with an air pump, gradually increasing the pressure to the nameplate. If, without reaching it, the regulator opens, then replace it.

Check the ignition system -what is the ignition timing. What is the state of the candles, high voltage wires... More detailed instructions the check is in to the engine. Remember the main thing, do not rely on your own experience or fragmentary knowledge. If you miss any nuance, you can spoil any element of the system. For example, ignition coils.

Air flow or pressure sensor these sensors help electronic unit engine control to determine how much air the engine consumes and how much fuel must be supplied to form a fuel-air mixture. If the sensors are faulty, then the computer may incorrectly calculate the amount of fuel, and you eat accordingly. But why, then, the light does not light up? The computer is programmed to short circuit or break the sensor. If the sensor does not work correctly, the computer can only inform you that the mixture formation in the fuel system is not correct and that's it. You will have to find the source yourself. For this, there are special guides for the stages of checking the components. What parameters the sensor should have, see the manual.

Checking the timing chain or belt -the crankshaft and the timing shaft must rotate synchronously, for this you need these belts or chains. You just need to combine all the marks that you have applied to the belt and gears. There are times when the belt jumps one tooth or the chain stretches. But with the proper level of service, you will be protected from this scourge.

Checking the exhaust system for blocking -modern engines are very sophisticated and car manufacturers are trying to make their cars less harmful to the environment. One of the components of such a system is a catalyst installed in exhaust system... For some, it can be located directly next to the engine, for others, somewhere under the body. But one thing is invariable, he is. When using dirty fuel, which is sold in abundance at our gas stations, over time, the catalyst deteriorates and blocks the normal flow exhaust gases... You can check its performance either using remote thermometers (the temperature after the catalyst should be slightly higher) or by the pressure before and after the catalyst. If you are deprived of such opportunities, then you just have to shoot it and look at the light. If he is hammered, then it is better to replace him, of course, but there are practically no conscious individuals who are ready to part with a large amount of money, he is simply knocked out.

Check the compressionfor this you need a compression gauge with a pressure gauge, the accuracy of which you trust. Over time, the rings on the pistons grind off and the compression in the cylinders decreases, this has its effect on the operation of the engine and on its starting. However, rings are not the only cause of poor compression. If the valves of the mechanism Timing does not fit snugly to their seats, then there will also be a bad result. To identify the source of poor compression, after the first measurement of compression, add a few grams of engine oil to the cylinder and measure again. If the compression has risen, then the rings are to blame. If not, valves. However, when measuring the compression, your battery must be well charged, otherwise all efforts will be wasted. It is better to screw the compressor gauge instead of spark plugs, instead of using a rubber seal. More convenient.

If all of the above points passed the tests, then it remains only to check the transmission.

Transmission check sometimes the engine develops enough power, but it does not actually reach the wheels. If, while driving, you hear that the engine is working hard, and at the same time you do not feel the vigor of the car, then the automatic transmission may slip or the brake system is blocked. You can determine this by coasting the car, when driving on a horizontal section of the road, move the gear selector to the "D" position and look at the behavior of the car. If he tries to slow down immediately, watch the brakes. If not, then you need to think about visiting a service station and checking the machine. Beforehand, of course, you yourself can, at least, carry out a parking test.

To carry out a parking test, you will need free space in front of you and a tachometer. It is necessary to warm up the car engine, then apply the hand brake. Step on the brake pedal with your foot and move the gear selector to “D”. Without releasing the brake pedal, press the gas pedal and watch the tachometer reading. If the rpm is around 2000 (for cars with a turbine about 2200) then everything is fine. If more / less than this number, then you still have to go to the service station to check the machine. The test is done for a few seconds and then necessary run the engine on idle... Free space in front of you is necessary in case you have bad brakes.